Cruising MoonShine

Why a boat?

Without getting so deep into philosophy that you don’t read the rest of this blog, here is a quick answer to the question, “why?” Why do this boating thing (again)? It entails a lot and is a big commitment. Money, time, effort, stress, discomfort, uncertainty, more money, and a boat to clean that is almost as long as my house. And yes, this one is a powerboat, not a sailboat, so not quite as romantic, but the feeling of watching the wake disappear behind you as you head towards new unexplored places is very much the same.

So. Here’s my attempt to explain why people like us do things like this.

Let me start with a quote: “Life shrinks or expands in proportion to one’s courage.”  Anais Nin

I learned that lesson years ago. That sentiment is what allowed me to do things in my life like walk away from one career and start another. More than once. It has brought scary, uncertain, even bleak moments into my life, but every – single – time it has brought even more reward.

I remember leaning on my big red toolbox when I was around 24, back at New Holland Farm Equipment in Dodge City Kansas, and even though at that point in life I couldn’t formulate the thought, I felt it. I wanted more than just a paycheck and a comfortable life. Well, I wanted that, AND something more. I wanted to live my life, not just experience it as it passed by. Various experiments in that direction provided some great (mis)adventures, but the first time I stepped on a large sailboat, I was hooked. I was lucky enough to enjoy several years of the sailing life, but when that ended it felt premature. I knew I wouldn’t want to sail around forever, but I have always felt like I was pushed out of it early. That story, should you wish to revisit the past, is summed up here:

https://requiemenimlucidity.blogspot.com/

So here I am, about to do it again. The past is relevant and not to be ignored, but I learned long ago to live now, not in some useless state of regret about what might have been or worse, fear of what might be. So, onward. I’m excited in a way I haven’t been in years, which is an invigorating way to start my seventh year of retirement and my sixty-eighth year.

“If I don’t find time to live my life well the first time, when am I going to find time to go back and live it over?

Point taken, Mr. Feynman.

(PS. If you like quotes, The Xanwar Manifesto is back in print.)

About Butch & Cheryl

Just a couple of retired people who share an unquenched desire to get out there and make some adventure, as opposed to sitting around the house wishing something fun would happen.  We both have learned that doesn’t come automatically.  So we hatched a plan and are doing it.  Seems simple enough.  I have the sailing experience and Cheryl has the RV experience, so we have many aspects of this already covered.  I sold her on this idea by telling her a boat was just an RV that happens to float.  (I think she’s figured out that’s not quite accurate.  As she pointed out, RVs don’t generally run too much risk of sinking.)  This blog will be mostly me, Butch, with comments from Cheryl as she adds her thoughts.

About the boat

She’s a 1997 Bayliner 3788, one of about 1000 made over almost a decade.  Apparently it was a popular design.  Powered by two Cummins diesels with a diesel generator.

This particular boat was previously owned by someone much like me, meticulous when it comes to maintenance.  The list of things he’d repaired or replaced is pages long which is great; I did not want to re-fit a boat again.  Once was enough!

From the factory brochure:

“The Bayliner 3788 Motor Yacht is an updated version of the original with a fresh appearance and a new two-stateroom interior. Built on a conventional modified-V hull with a relatively flat 10 degrees of transom deadrise, the 3788 is a good-looking boat with more than a hint of European styling. Large cabin windows make the salon seem open and spacious, and the dinette (or optional lower helm station) is elevated to provide headroom for the mid-stateroom beneath. The galley is up, and the master stateroom has a walkaround center berth. Hatches in the salon sole provide access to the engine compartment. Topside, the flybridge accommodates five adults, and a long overhang shades the cockpit.  Additional features include a swim platform, transom door, opening side windows, foredeck sun pad, and a tub/shower in the head. Standard 310hp MerCruiser gas inboards cruise at 17–18 knots. Optional 330hp Cummins diesels cruise the 3788 at 20 knots and reach a top speed of around 25 knots. Note that a revised version of this boat was introduced in 2003 as the Meridian 381 Sedan.”

Bayliners, according to some, are somehow “low quality” boats.  That’s just another urban myth repeated by people who don’t know better than to repeat unsubstantiated urban myths.  It is not a high-end boat, true, but Bayliner is (as Meridian) the largest manufacturer of recreational boats in the world with over 400 dealers world-wide.  They didn’t get there with low quality boats.  That story came about because for a while in the 90’s Bayliner had quality issues in the fiberglass layup with their smaller boats.  That’s it.  The larger boats have always been sound.  Bayliners are solid, affordable boats, something many other manufacturers have left behind.  Another issue I have to mention is the unseaworthyness of a Bayliner.  Supposedly these are calm-water boats only.  Cheryl and I crossed from Panama City to Pensacola in 4-5 foot seas on the quarter beam at 20mph and took water over the bimini at times.  The ride was wet, we used the wipers a lot while steering from the lower helm inside, but the boat did fine and the ride was as comfortable as some sailboats I’ve been on.  It’s definitely not a boat I’d take out in the same conditions I’d take a sailboat, but it’s capable of a fair amount.  The company headquarters, as the Brunswick Boat Group, are for some reason located here in Knoxville, but the boats are/were manufactured in Washington and Maryland.  Most of the boat manufacturers, SeaRay, Maxum, US Marine, have all been consolidated under the Brunswick name.  At one point maybe twenty years ago a yacht builder started to set up a manufacturing plant near Knoxville on the Tennessee river but that fell through.  The giant building still sits empty today.  I wonder if that was Brunswick?  (I’ve since learned it was SeaRay.)

Frequently asked questions

What is this "Great Loop"?

Thanks to the efforts of the United States Army Corps of Engineers, starting in about 1826, there is a navigable waterway that circumnavigates the eastern third of the United States, from Maine to Florida by way of Illinois and Alabama.  Some of it is via the intracoastal waterway and some of it is by navigable rivers and lakes.  It’s called “The Great Loop” and it’s one of the few true adventures available in our modern society that doesn’t either risk your life, cost a fortune or violate the law.  (Not that I’m opposed to any of those but in general I try to avoid them.)  Basically you procure a boat suitable for living aboard and follow the intracoastal waterway and the river systems around while you follow the seasons.  Most people spend winter in the south portion, summer in the north going through the Great Lakes.  There is a Great Loop Association, a valuable resource, along with numerous books, all of which I’ve read every word of, and a dozen dozen websites and youtube videos.  Every problem you are thinking of right now has already been solved by people who have done this and then fortunately for us, written about it.  I’ve done some of it by sailboat on one trip or another, from Knoxville to Beaufort NC, but I was always bound for somewhere and didn’t slow down and experience the areas I passed through.  This time will be more leisurely.  After all, where does everyone go on vacation?  To the water’s edge!  So what better way to travel than along the edge of continent and sea?

“Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing -absolutely nothing- half so much worth doing as simply messing about with boats.”

How long does it take?

The short answer is, for most boats, about a year.

It’s 6200 miles or so around the Loop. If you travel 50 miles a day, (that’s five hours or less travel time) it takes 120 days to do the Loop, leaving 244 days for sightseeing, weather, etc. Two-thirds of your time is not traveling. So while it sounds like a lot, in reality that leaves plenty of time to go home for visits, sightsee, fix the boat, whatever comes up.

We don’t want to be away a full year without a break at home, so that will make a difference.  Until we start we just don’t know.  We are not committed to anything but an adventure.  So we’ll go for a while and when we get homesick or just need to get back for a bit we’ll park the boat in a marina and rent a car.  We both love where we live and the things we do around here, and we’ll miss our friends and family, so the question is wide open.  If we love it and want to stay on the boat and keep going, we’ll do that.  This is an adventure and an experiment at the same time.

“The ocean is the last wild, wild west. If they ever figure out a way to populate the sea and bring their strip malls, highways and troubles out here, people like us will be building fiberglass spaceships.”

How much does it cost?

It costs a certain amount to live for a year, right?  Being on a boat for a year is still a year of living, so you’re going to have the same expenses as you do at home.  Groceries, etc.  So that’s the bottom line.  Shore excursions, car rentals and boat fuel will add to that, as will the possible increased number of times you’ll eat out.  But frugal people live the way they do and wealthy people burn through it like they always do.  Nothing changes on a boat.  We will anchor out as many nights as possible to save marina fees, and since we are both frugal people we don’t anticipate any economic hardship except the fuel.  At speed, MoonShine burns fuel like a b****, as expected from a 40 foot powerboat, but we’ve built that into our plans.  We are keeping our homes so will have those ongoing expenses, but again, we’ve figured all that out.  We wouldn’t be doing this if it was economically risky.  So the bottom line is, yep it’s going to be expensive, with the major cost being fuel which we estimate at between $8,000 and  $12,000 for the entire year.  I’ve done lots of estimates and talked to other people who have done this and I’m reasonably confident that’s our range.  Where else are you going to vacation, travel, live, sightsee and have a grand adventure, all in one, for $650 to $1000 a month?  You can’t book one week at a resort or at a decent hotel for that.  The boat itself I don’t consider an expense.  We got a extraordinarily well-maintained boat, it’s fully insured, and we’ll sell it when we are done with it.  I look at it like this, the money was in the bank, now it’s in a boat, eventually it’ll be back in the bank.

And if I may do a shameless plug for my other book, I’ve been selling options for something like 25 years now.  Options premium paid for much of Lucidity and all of MoonShine (and Black Sunshine, sitting in the garage) and continues to provide me with a nice income.  Check it out here:

https://www.smoothsailingwithoptions.com/

“Going cruising is the reward for being very responsible for a very long time.”

Tell me about that name? MoonShine?

One of the fun things in buying a new boat is picking out a name.  Cheryl and I went back and forth with all kinds of names for awhile, I liked “Pestilence” as I thought it would keep people away, Cheryl liked names that were more friendly sounding like “Andiamo!”.  However that one is listed on the US Coast Guard registry dozens of times and we wanted something a bit more unique.  One day one of us mentioned “MoonShine” and we both loved it.  Cheryl because she likes moonshine on the water at night, and of course since we both live in Tennessee, it fit that way too.  No, we will not be having a still on the boat.

“We went cruising not to escape from life, but to prevent life from escaping from us.”

What is this Black Sunshine you mention?

A car.  I’ve had my get-to-work cars, all practical, but I’ve managed to have one fun car most of the time.  And it has definitely been fun.  The sound of a 3/4 cam and dual exhaust still sounds sweet, even after all these years.  I appreciate that my generation lived an era that will never be repeated; that of the muscle car.  Oh sure, you can buy a 1000 horsepower exotic now, or even a HellCat Challenger from your local Dodge dealer, but those are expensive replicas of what used to sit on the used car lots.  By the 70’s the muscle cars of the 60’s had ten years on them, which back then was a lot, and the gas shortage of the mid-70’s made a gas-guzzling muscle car undesirable to the average working man.  So teenagers like me could pick them up on the car lot at affordable prices.  440 Chargers, 428 Mustangs, 396 Camaros; you got a huge engine with a giant carburetor or two on top and maybe even a four-speed transmission.  That was about it.  No back-up cameras, no disk brakes, no air bags, no radial tires.  “Unsafe at any speed” applied to most cars then, not just Corvairs.  Movies filled the silver screen with car chases, some of the movies of that era were in fact nothing but a two hour car chase.  And we loved ’em.  Burt Reynolds, The Cannonball Run, Vanishing Point, The GumBall Rally, Gone in 60 Seconds, those influences were what we were exposed to.  So we went out and did it.  Since there are no mountains or lakes around Dodge there was little to do compared to other parts of the country.  We did have highways, long flat highways, very little traffic, and .40 cent gas.  (Once in a while I would drive out to the airport and fill up with aviation gas at 130 octane.  Rocket fuel!)  So we dragged Earp in cars that smoked tires and left waves of rolling thunder.  We took all this for granted.  Those were my formative years, and it stuck.  So in an effort to recapture my fleeting youth, I still own a 3/4 cam dual exhaust rolling thunder kind of car, which mainly gets taken out to lunch and to the occasional car show.  I’ve had Mustangs, my last one was a 2008 convertible with close to 600 horsepower, but this time around I wanted a classic, something big, black and long.  You can’t drive fast anymore anyway, too many cars and too unsafe, and besides I’m over that part of it.  But I wanted that rumble with a hint of muscle car.  So I looked at ’63 Lincolns with the suicide doors, ’57 Ford Fairlanes and some old Cadillacs, with the intent of restoring one and adding a blower.  I came across Black Sunshine, a ’63 Ford Galaxie 500, in Duluth, MN, and fell in love.  Sold the Mustang and brought it home.  Took me two years but she’s done, blower and all, and I love it.  I have the biggest grin on my face every time I fire that motor up.  The blower whine is music.  Practical it’s not, but as one of my friends put it, “A daily driver moves your body.  A car like Black Sunshine moves your soul.”   (click on image for full size)

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